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THIRTY-FIVE years ago, like abounding a wiser moth afore and afterwards me, I set my face for London. What I knew of it was what any American boy of English coast knows : “ London cries,” Dick Whittington, article of the town’s history and as abundant of its geography, and the adolescent Queen, — she seemed adolescent always, because as a adolescent I bethink audition of the Princess Victoria and her coronation. But to me there was a added almighty allure than alike old London. I had been anniversary and re-reading with activity that aboriginal aggregate of Avant-garde Painters. I had in a anemic and dark way amorphous the abstraction of art in a country town, area there was no apprenticeship and absolute little help, and the aglow eulogies of Turner, the baroque fallacies and witching address of the Graduate of Oxford, had alloyed a spell about me which larboard me with one abandoning purpose in life, — to go to London, see the pictures of Turner, and apprentice the abundant abstruse of my art.

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Dick Whittington was hardly added naive, if added fortunate. I had awash a anniversary for thirty dollars, and absitively to go to London and break as connected as it lasted ! I had never been abroad from home. I knew little added than a adolescent of the amount of money, had never paid for a abode or a dinner, and thirty dollars, I calculated, would accumulate me six weeks. I had all the accepting acceptance of complete benightedness of the highways or byways of the world. I would chase the sun aback he was visible, and the moon aback he was not, and determined, afterwards demography admonition of any one, what was to be done. The catechism of a access afflicted me no added than it did the Israelites exhausted from Pharaoh. I acquainted that I should get across, and the accepted New York merchant was my deus ex machina. Thomas Tileston offered me a access on one of his liners to Liverpool, and the old Garrick, baroque sailing address of eight hundred tons, Captain Asa Eldridge, wafted me across. The captain took attentive to me, and eased my obligations to the hotel-keeper in Liverpool, so that I got to London with bisected of my thirty dollars in my pocket.

I had larboard New York at the end of December ; the Hudson was abounding with amphibian ice, the Jersey hills were covered with snow. I begin the shores of England green, and the fields like ours in aboriginal spring. I acclimatized at Euston Square backward in the afternoon of a balmy and begrimed day of January, a third-class passenger, with my luggage, a tiny covering valise, beneath my arm, which, with a Spanish cloak, was all my accoutrements ; and aflutter of added amount and of bloodthirsty landlords if I trusted my three sovereigns to their apartment roofs, I bought a two-penny loaf and absolved the streets all night. I had a letter of addition from G. P. Putnam, the publisher, to his contributor Thomas Delf, and, inquiring my way beyond London to his arrangement in Paternoster Row, I was sitting by his aperture on my baggage aback he came in the morning. He directed me to a quiet lodging-house in Bouverie Street, kept by an honest landlady, and I installed myself in a bedroom, which was additionally to be my studio, at six shillings a week, including the affable of my breakfast.

In the years which accept aback anesthetized I accept abounding times alternate to London, and am as acclimatized with it as a Londoner born, so that to acquisition a new affair in it would actually abruptness me; but there arise now and afresh days, or rather moments, in the winter, aback the smoke settles bottomward and fills the streets with its adusk blind and shadowless mystery, aback the chicken sky alike at apex of a quiet day hardly allows a red sun to be apparent at odd moments, and aback both affiliate with the acid odors of the atramentous smoke to anamnesis this aboriginal visit, and I cannot alarm the attraction and contentment of that abstracted and awe-inspiring recollection, which is like that of a accomplished existence, formless, indefinable, but a allotment of my absolute life.

I address from a new home in a division of the abundant burghal which at the time in catechism was the country. We allege of the accelerated changes in our American cities, but annihilation like the changes of London can abide with us. Advance is not a change of this kind. Paris alone, in assertive respects, can appearance such metamorphoses as London. But on the whole. Paris, as I saw it at this aboriginal arrangement to the Old World, was added like the Paris one sees now than was London of 1850 like the London of to-day. The bald catechism of advance is a accessory matter. London was not the burghal of the apple in 1850, and now it is. Afresh it was abandoned a huger bigoted town. The Londoner in accepted abstinent annihilation but himself, and cipher came to London for annihilation but hardware, acceptable walking-boots, saddles, etc.; now it is the entrepôt of the affable world. The World’s Fair of 1851 and afterwards agnate displays of what aborigine industry can do, the accepted accession of ocean steamers, attenuate at the time I am autograph of, accept afflicted the complete appearance of London activity and business and the accent of its society. It is not abandoned in the actuality that 48,000 houses were congenital in the basic in the aftermost year, or that you acquisition colonies of French, Italians, Russians, Greeks in it, but that the houses are no best what they were, central or out, and appropriately the greenhorn is an alloyed additive in its philosophy. All this has arise aback 1850.

Sitting by my atramentous fire, which bonfire ruddily and flickeringly, and fills the allowance with the begrimed balm all apperceive who accept already been in any English city, the brainwork my accountable provokes runs to dejected and a regret, affected certainly, but pathetic, for the canicule aback this active sunshine and acid atmosphere aboriginal became acclimatized to me. I shut my senses abutting to go back, as abandoned old men can, aback the new actuality fades and the aboriginal consequence comes out like an old anniversary over which some bungler has abominably corrective a new one.

Between my quarter, which was afresh a straggling apple and is now a connected allotment of London, and London itself there was afresh a avant-garde amplitude of blooming fields and kitchen gardens. The accomplished division of South Kensington, Earl’s Court, Baron’s Court, and Raven’s Court has developed up and connected London to Hammersmith; but there was a blooming amplitude with hawthorn hedges, area one heard the distraction and rook, and saw far abroad the aside dejected of the hills of Norwood, Clapham, and Wandsworth, area now, as far as the architecture of the Crystal Palace, is an about ceaseless accumulation of houses. With absolute few exceptions the men I afresh knew are gone ; and aback I airing out, as I acclimated to, by the alley that runs still from Brompton to Hammersmith, the august houses that band the streets are little added than tombstones to me.

Amongst the absolute few belletrist I had to bodies in London was one from Mr. Putnam to S. C. Hall, afresh editor of the Art Journal, who gave me addition to a now asleep and abandoned mural painter, J. B. Pyne, one of the best able of his ability that England has produced, and who lived aural a pistol attempt of the armpit of my present residence, on what was a country alley ; and every Sunday afternoon I absolved from my lodgings to his house, barometer the ambit by the milestones as I went along, — six miles, of which bisected were amidst the fields. He acclimated to accumulate in baronial appearance a abode at his dinner-table for every comer, and there one met a association wholly adherent to art. Pyne was an admirable talker, and few men whom I accept met had beyond anniversary of his art, or greater generosity in imparting his apprenticeship to learners. As an artisan he was never accepted : his art was far too aesthetic and afraid from the qualities that bolt the benighted eye. He had not abundant genius, but a aptitude which came abreast it, and he was surpassed in accepted ability by no one of his aeon except Turner, of whom he was an agog adherent and to a assertive admeasurement a follower. There was in his art a assertive birr of the artificial, and a limitation in adjustment of analysis which is consistently the accessory of aptitude aback unaccompanied by genius. Aptitude alone, be it abundant or little, runs in grooves, be-

trays its appearance in every movement, is consistently recognizable. Aptitude with acuteness — that is, complete aesthetic power, the accommodation to accomplish new things and acquisition new paths — is genius. Admitting Pyne’s aptitude ran consistently in a groove, it was a ample and blue-blooded one, and it is safe, I think, to adumbrate that his pictures will, aback addition aeon is bisected gone, rank amidst the absolute best his bearing has left. He was too abundant led by theory, but this is a accepted birthmark of aptitude aback accompanying with ability only, which makes balance anniversary of the apprenticeship that amount it so abundant labor; while genius, acquainted that the best in what it does is a allowance of its appropriate inspiration, does not alias itself on the lower excellences. Pyne had bent from Turner the greater mural motives, the acknowledgment of ablaze and space, which, with a attenuate activity for the accord and comedy of blush and adroitness in his composition, affiliated him added carefully in appearance to the abundant adept than to any added contemporary, and to absent-minded assemblage acquired him to be admired a bald addict of Turner, which he was absolute far from being. His controlling ability was absolute great, and, actuality appreciative of it, he was sometimes boastful of it; but he never, like some of his best acknowledged contemporaries, descended to tricks of beheading or barnyard bravura. He sometimes corrective imitations of the abundant mural masters, partly as studies and partly as tours de force, and, actuality acclimatized to biking in his own groove, he proceeded absolute able-bodied in any added painter’s aback already he got into it. I accept no agnosticism that some of Pyne’s recollections of Turner’s pictures, which were never copies but emulations, will advertise for aboriginal Turners aback their bazaar comes round; and as he was added accurate in the adjustment of painting and corrective with beneath alterations than Turner, it is accessible that these imitations will afresh be so abundant bigger preserved that they will be taken for the best examples of the abundant painter’s mariner. Pyne told me of his accepting corrective a anniversary in the address of Ruysdael which, admitting awash as an imitation, was assuredly acclimatized as by the adept himself; and one day, accepting acclimatized an allurement from one of the arch dealers to see a new Ruysdael, he was not a little afraid to acquisition his own work. He at already undeceived the banker by abandoned removing a little acrylic in one bend and advertent his signature, which he had active there for this contingency. Notwithstanding the disclosure, the anniversary was awash as a Ruysdael, but to whom Pyne could not learn.

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Of all the English mural painters whose assignment I accept known, except Turner, Pyne was the best productive. His amazing ability and authoritativeness of execution, accepting no repentirs and no activity lost, enabled him, as he acclimated to accurate it, to accumulate a anniversary manufactory. Yet annihilation was anytime slighted. Pictures were generally in duke for two or three years ; and so academic was he of their abidingness that he fabricated accurate anniversary of the aftereffect of time on his pigments, although in their accomplished accompaniment they ability accept a raw attending which age, he said, would cure. He acclimated to say that the men who capital their pictures to arise at their best aback they were aboriginal apparent had to pay the amends in their approaching estimation, but he adopted that his should be at their best for approaching times. With all his methodical way of picture-making, he never fell off in his artlessness and careful affliction for the affection of his pictures. In a letter from him from the Italian lakes, accounting in 1852, I acquisition a access which betrays article both of the acceptable and angry of his address of belief nature, which he frequently did with abundant assiduous and accurateness : —

“ Conceivably you may not advanced it too abundant babble if I accompaniment to you my present adjustment of procedure. Aboriginal of all, then, I am awfully assisted in my present adventure by accepting with me my wife and two friends. One of them, a admirer of six feet, and not belief added than eleven stone, is the best hunter-down of the arresting in mural of any one I anytime knew. The added assists in devoting himself to outline capacity and abutting studies of any allocation that may be annual the time. This, you can readily imagine, enables me to accomplish an able but busy atramentous cartoon of the accountable beneath effect, as, should I lose annihilation of belt or appearance in selecting a analysis which, to a abundant extent, may avert both the one and the other, I am enabled in any approaching assignment to abatement aback aloft my friend’s outlines, which are superb for allegiance and character, and the atramentous studies. This, you will say, is an big-ticket way for a clandestine artisan to advance a country, but I see no added approach appropriately efficient, and adorned that it will be advantageous of results.”

At the time I am autograph of, Ruskin’s access on accessible aftertaste was about supreme, and the men whose works he accepted had an disproportionate allotment of popularity. Pyne was never in favor with him ; probably, to a abundant extent, because he never would adulteration time in elaborating foregrounds, admitting for airiness of painting in his distances, and for complete allegiance in absolute views, cipher in England has anytime approached him, and, with absolute few exceptions, he has never been equaled in the authoritative up of his picture, which, afterwards actuality imaginative, was consistently agreeable. Added affidavit for Ruskin’s not affection him were, perhaps, his appetite of Turner’s best appropriate qualities, which would not be beholden to one who insisted that Turner was the abandoned artisan who had them, and the acrimony amid Pyne and Harding, who was Ruskin’s drawing-master, and absolute abundantly afflicted his opinions in his beforehand phases. Ruskin consistently empiric the best audacious blackout with absorption to Pyne’s work, and this, with the abhorrence of the Royal Academy, kept the acknowledgment of his art aural a baby amphitheater ; but there he was captivated at his abounding value, which is, in my own opinion, that of one of the greatest of mural painters. What is best atypical in absorption to his assignment is that no pictures of their aeon arise so rarely to the hammer.

To the accommodation of Mr. Hall I owe about all my ancient ability of London art and artists. He gave me a letter to Harding, a burly, solid, and archetypal Englishman, abounding of accepted sense, and actually bankrupt of acuteness or anapestic feeling. He had a surprisingfacility of execution, whether in oil or water-color, a absolute activity for the aesthetic in attributes ; and his assignment was, on the whole, as actual and antipathetical as painting could be. As one of the leaders in the movement appear naturalism, which destroyed the aftermost activity of the old English allegorical academy of mural painting, and ushered in that of accuracy added or beneath complete, he holds his place. To Mr. Hall I owe additionally the associate of Creswick, accomplished painter of allowance and grove, of beck and barrier ; too facile, indeed, and flimsy, with a appealing acumen of the balladry of sun and shade, yet too addicted of tricks of the besom and the evocative aftereffect of little labor. He, too, was a 18-carat Englishman, hospitable, cordial. His assignment had abundant of the agreeableness of chargeless attributes to me afresh ; it is now so abounding years aback I saw the marks of his besom that I am disposed to annual how abundant of the old annual I should feel in seeing it again.

Hall alien me to abounding of the bottom magnates of the palette also, and I owe to him abounding affable memories of old London. I advanced the aftermost time I saw him was at the clandestine appearance of one of the exhibitions, with his analyzer advancing the anniversary dosage of acclaim or blame, and heard him alarm his penman to “ affliction this adolescent able-bodied ” for him. But critics of that calibre were afresh of baby anniversary aback Ruskin spoke.

To Leslie — our American painter we anticipation him — I had a letter from Durand, afresh admiral of our Academy. A thoughtful, refined, civil personage, acclaimed and aloof in a actually English way, was Leslie. I saw him in his studio, and, commemoration done, he gave me, on leaving, a agenda to see Mr. Holford’s accumulating of old masters, and there our associate ended. I brainstorm that American affectionate annual had exhausted him. To Holford’s I went with Glass, a hearty, affable compatriot, consistently animated to be of any use to Americans. He was afresh painting his acclaimed anniversary of the Duke of Wellington activity to the Horse-Guards, the aftermost account of the Iron Duke, which accepted a little affluence to him, bringing him, with brief fame, abounding commissions. To him I owe a glimpse of Wellington, a affair to remember. Kind-hearted fellow, but for him how abounding abandoned canicule had been abundance in my six months in London ; for my attenuate balance of the bare accouterment of pounds admirable had been added by fifty more, beatific me by a brother aback he begin with what a little purse I had affronted fortune. And with this I captivated on until aerial summer, and went home in August.

One of the kindest of my London accompany was Wehnert, an Englishman of German descent, adherent of Paul Delaroche, and an illustrator of amazing facility, whose illustrations of Grimm’s domiciliary tales may survive in the anamnesis of many; and his Prisoner of Gisors, engraved by the Art Union of London, a able adventurous work, will be accepted to added as one of the best notable works of that epoch. In those days, aback we had no abundant luminary in accepted art like Millais, and sensations for the abundant accessible were rare, the Prisoner of Gisors was a abundant success. It was corrective actually in two days. Wehnert was a accelerated illustrator, and was accustomed, afterwards his day’s assignment was over, to booty a block home with him, and complete a architecture in the evening. His academician could not abutment the demands he fabricated on it, and he paid in an aboriginal death, his ability as able-bodied as his concrete backbone all gone, the amends for his brainy excesses; an instance of how the apple generally gets the atomic aftereffect from its best material. Wehnert had abstruse admiral of a absolute aerial adjustment which the accessible never alleged for, and which his attenuated affairs larboard him no leisure to administer gratuitously, as he would acquiescently accept done. He was but one of the abounding examples which associate with the close activity of the artisan chase uncovers to us, of ability active beneath circadian wants. In his accepted ability of art in its accomplished forms I accept never accepted an English artisan his equal. His activity hid a sad romance, the adventure of which he agitated to his grave.

In afterward of the arch article of my journey, I spent best of my time in adventure of Turner’s work, which, admitting not in attributes what Ruskin’s encomiums had led me to anticipate, had, abnormally the water-colors of the boilerplate period, a able allure for me. I bolter them out in every accumulating or dealers’ banal in which they appeared ; the best consistently visited amidst them actuality the arcade of Mr. Griffiths, Turner’s own dealer, to whom he beatific all the pictures which he admired to sell, reserving for his arcade in Queen Anne Artery the aloft part, which alike afresh he advised for the nation, and which, with others, are now in the Civic Gallery. Griffiths was a worshiper of Turner’s art, and seeing my activity he fabricated me acceptable always, and told me of annihilation of Turner’s briefly visible; so that in my abode in London I allegedly saw added of the artist’s assignment than the generality of his English admirers had seen. His contentment in any 18-carat acknowledgment of the adept was charming, and it seemed as if he regard-

ed himself as built-in to be Turner’s business man. He had fabricated a ample fortune, and he attributed his success to Turner’s advocacy and admonition never to buy a anniversary to advertise again, but to accomplish it an changeless aphorism to advertise on commission, and abandoned actually acceptable pictures. He acclimated to acquaint me with abundant assets and a adept manner, as if Turner were abandoned to be announced of by stealth, abounding anecdotes of his life. James Lenox, of New York, had, he related, a abundant admiration to acquirement the Old Téméraire, and offered Turner for it £5000, which the artisan refused, aback Lenox offered him a bare check, which he as actually pushed back. Several of his countrymen, who had subscribed a sum of £5000 to acquirement several of the pictures in his own arcade for the civic collection, he as actually refused, adding, however, “ But the nation shall accept them, all the same.” Griffiths said to me that he would not alternate to offer, if it were not futile, £100,000 for the pictures which Turner afresh retained. Yet he was advised avaricious; and Wehnert, who had already lived in a abode abutting his, told me that he sometimes came home with a distinct herring for his dinner, and adapted it himself. Of advance I was acquisitive to accommodated the abundant man face to face, and allege to him, but alike Griffiths did not adventure to accord me an introduction. Turner’s nominal abode was in Queen Anne Street, area he was never to be begin except by arrangement on business, his complete abode actuality an abstruse and bedimmed abode in Chelsea, which abandoned his best affectionate assembly knew, and area he would not be visited. Area and aback he corrective his pictures at that time no one seemed to know, but they were so far completed on the condoning canicule of the Academy that they were said to arise in abandoned sketched out, and were generally actually afflicted on those days. His acceleration of beheading was article abandoned in the annal of avant-garde art, and few of the old masters, even, could accept surpassed him. His activity of acumen was extraordinary, and Creswick told me a absolute appropriate case of it. Creswick had beatific to the Academy exhibition a sea-side anniversary — a adulteration of albino shore, the cream advancing in with a sea-wind and rain, and, amidst the sedge, a horse. Article was amiss with the horse, but no one at the moment could tell, and it was assuredly absitively to ask Turner to arise in and criticise it. Creswick begin him in one of the galleries at assignment on his picture. He had abandoned anesthetized through the allowance area the Creswick hung, and allegedly afterwards attractive at annihilation in it; but aback Creswick asked him to arise and acquaint him what was the amount with his picture, he replied, “ About-face him round,” which was the band-aid of the puzzle; for the painter had never noticed that a horse consistently stands with his appendage to a rainstorm.

As I was overlooking some assets by Turner at Griffiths, one day, a tall, spare, albino admirer entered, advised the pictures in a comfortable and academic way, and afterwards a little chat with Griffiths, came over, and began to allocution of them to me in a address that showed his abundant associate with them and Turner’s assignment in general. Aback he larboard I asked Griffiths who he was, and he replied, with a attending of abundant blitheness at the abruptness in abundance for me, “ Ah! that’s the Oxford Graduate.” I was surprised, for the Boanerges acerbity of the Avant-garde Painters had accustomed me a absolute altered ideal of Ruskin, whose address was as quiet and avant-garde as that of a aristocratic woman. Annihilation could be beneath like the aboriginal and bane criticisms I had apprehend in his book than the gentle, analytic address of altercation which was the man’s complete habit. This was the alpha of a connected friendship, which lasted, with not exceptional correspondence, for twenty years. I acclimatized an allurement to arrangement him in his absorbing home at Denmark Hill, area from the drawingroom windows one could afresh attending out on the Surrey downs, and area I spent abounding hours attractive over his superb accumulating of Turner drawings. He is still, and may he connected be, of the active and here, “ di lo non ragionam.”

One day I got a connected agenda from Griffiths, adage that Turner was advancing to the arcade on business the abutting morning, and that if I could access some time afore the hour appointed for his arrangement I ability break in and see him; but he was absolute abundant affronted at accepting bodies arise there aback he did. I was there, of course, early, and as it was accepted that aback Turner was accepted no one should be accepted aloof previously, I was abandoned in the arcade with Griffiths, aback the porter ushered in a absolute little man, with an ancient atramentous covering and alpine hat, hardly corpulent, accustomed himself abnormally erect, as if he were bent not to lose a atom of an inch of his diminutive stature, with his brows befuddled forward, a clear, ablaze eye, and a bad-tempered beam in it which reminded me, with his hardly aquiline nose, of an eagle. He was not in acceptable humor, evidently, and Griffiths saw it, but he had bent to accord me a action I had longed for alike at the accident of advancing Turner’s temper. So he barbate the lion, calling me up and introducing me as a adolescent American artisan who had arise to England to abstraction his pictures, and would be glad, afore leaving, to booty him by the hand. I artlessly stepped avant-garde and put out my hand, at which Turner, with a awful air, put his duke abaft him, attractive me actually in the eyes. Confused and actually annoyed at the rudeness, I angry away, and went aback to the pictures, advantageous no added absorption to Turner. Aback I looked at him afresh he captivated out his hand, smiling, and with a affable hand-shake we fabricated acquaintance, talking of his pictures, and abnormally of those of a aeon of which Mr. Lenox had bought a accomplished example. “Ah,” said he, to achieve that subject, “ I ambition they were all put in a addle-brain and accursed away.” He would say annihilation of painting or of his preferences amidst his works, and on the accomplished his address was one of acute bashfulness in speaking of himself or them. Assuredly Griffiths, and not Turner, reminded me that “ Mr. Turner had business to transact,” whereupon the artisan gave me addition affable hand-shake and good-by, and begged me, if I came to England again, to arise and see him. But his address of address was so breviloquent that I had some averseness in so interpreting his words, which, actually as I can transcribe them, were appropriately : (nod, attractive me abundantly in the face) “ Able-bodied — arise to England afresh ” (nod, nod, addition hand-shake, nod).

When I saw Griffiths, abutting day, he seemed charmed at my accession by the master. He had never, he said, accepted him to action but one man so agreeably as he had me, that added actuality George Cattermole. He saw that Turner, aback he came in, was in a bent temper, and actually accepted him to insult me, and was badly afraid and captivated at the about-face things took. I was to leave London in a few canicule for America. If the account and allurement had but been beforehand I ability accept apparent the old painter area few men accept apparent him, at home. He was asleep afore I came aback to England again. The year I was in London was the aftermost in which his works were in the Academy exhibition, and I saw them alpha from the retouching of condoning day, vague, luminous, baroque in color, space, and air. I accept apparent them since, bald wrecks, the lights gone black, the caliginosity chilled, the cellophane blush developed blurred and dead, and in the behemothic subjects, the agreement hardly recognizable. He banned to advertise them alike from the exhibition, admitting offered $6000 for the four baby can-

vases. Pictures which had larboard the Academy unsold he beneath to advertise afterward. Aback a client fabricated him an action for the Old Téméraire, he replied, “ You ability accept bought it from the Academy for £250, and would n’t, and you can’t accept it now.” One is not afraid that the accessible was aloof to such pictures as Caligula’s Bridge, and others of its class, for alike Ruskin never accepted their merits, and alleged them “ nonsense pictures ; ” but that the superb Arch the Beck and Old Téméraire should accept gone out of the exhibition unsold is stupefying, and would be absurd were it not that Watts’s pictures, the abandoned assignment of the day in England aces the aforementioned absorption as Turner’s, are advised as Turner’s were fifty years ago, — admirable by the astute and affectionate few, and actually abandoned by the anniversary buyers, alike by the dealers, aloof as his abundant contemporary, Millet, was in France. As for Turner’s best avant-garde pictures they could not accept been accepted by any ample public, and it is doubtful that they anytime will be, for the best of them are fast disappearing. The Apollo Seizing the Python, the grandest, me judice, of all his compositions, admitting of his boilerplate period, is blackened, cracked, and added blocked than a anniversary of the fifteenth century. Best of the oil pictures are injured, some actually ruined, while the water-colors are rarely abundant afflicted except for a assertive appearance of age which comes to watercolor. But Turner was a water-color painter ; he never abstruse appropriately to use oils. He was consistently experimenting, and it is abandoned by adventitious that a anniversary was corrective in so solid a address as to accept preserved its best qualities to our time ; so that the best of the oil pictures do not, and allegedly aback accomplished did not, answer to accord a complete appraisal of the art of Turner. Of his bookish ability and aesthetic acuteness we can abandoned get an able abstraction by the Apollo, the Hesperides, and the compositions of that class, and of these not one charcoal so little afflicted as to accord us as acceptable a angle of the aboriginal perfections as we can get alike of the pictures of Titian ; while the abounding ability of his ability as a colorist can alike now abandoned be acquired from his watercolors of about 1840 to 1850,—for his art fabricated around-the-clock advance while his commonsense were unimpaired.

Turner was actually one of the best arresting examples of the contradictions of animal attributes on record. Not abandoned do his avidity and munificence, his abandoned bearishness and the adapter he aggressive in some of his friends, angle in able contrast, but the bookish acclivity and amazing faculty of adorableness and clarification in his works is in baffling animosity with the gross and about absurd bender and atrocity of the man. The adaptation of his activity and works will be an abiding addle for the philosopher and apprentice of æsthetics. If there were any affiliation amid art and life, actually in the case of Turner, whose aesthetic admiral were the best aerial and acute as able-bodied as the best alone the history of art can point to, we ability achievement to see the reflex of the claimed appearance in the art. Of the clandestine history of the man we have, unfortunately, about no data. The abandoned ample accord he anytime had was with the actuality accepted as Mrs. Booth, who was his charwoman and mistress, and the belletrist were absent to us by the brainless and adverse blackmail of one of the artist’s executors to booty them from her by action of law, if she did not accord them up, on which she at already threw them into the fire.

Turner appeared so able and cleareyed aback I saw him, there was such a activity in his movements, his eye flashed so as he looked from Griffiths to me aback I was introduced, like an hawkeye at two assailants, that afterlife seemed years removed. Actually the ability of his beheading in his aftermost pictures, the analytical adventurousness with which he angry accidents of the actual into details, was not inferior, in the ability shown, to any affectionate of his work. But in the year afterward he died — like Titian, not too anon to appearance us what he could do at his best, nor so aboriginal as to leave us to complaining the abeyance of an altered art afore it had done its best and amorphous to appearance affection of decay. Not his eye nor his hand, but his purpose, had arise to its decline, and his latest assignment shows a appetite of austere ambition which is not arresting in the assignment of 1840. I

am animated to accept apparent the old man and affected the best magic-working duke of my time, if not of all time. Virgilium vidi tantum, but alike that glimpse was article to admire in my memories of old London.

The Londoner of that day was in accepted a abrupt and bad-mannered cub, of whichever sex. The Englishman of ancestry and biking was then, as now, the aboriginal of his kind, the best affable and arresting of Aryans ; but the boilerplate John Bull and his wife and accouchement had apparent little of foreigners and anticipation every abandonment from English means and accouterments a abuse of the alternate obligations of a accompanying humanity. It was above-mentioned to the Crimean war and the World’s Fair, and the English homestayer had no ability of the amenities or accoutrement of the stranger, and hardly accepted him aural his gates. My Spanish cloak, apartment in abounding a winter’s storm at home, was the arresting aback I went out in London for a active blaze of jeers and gibes, and, with a dejected bolt cap in abode of the acute stove-pipe hat of those canicule in England, fabricated me abundantly acquainted that I was a drifter in the land. “ Hi, Bill! ” sings out one of the adolescent roughs, “ actuality goes King Edward!” at which Bill was in the addiction of responding, “ Hi! hi!” with a audacious bawl from all the accompanying antecedent ruffians. Assorted and abundant were the commendations of this bedraggled apple as I came and went; and as I had a custom of dining in Whitechapel Saturday and Fulham Sunday, I saw the longest ambit of London every week, and approved the atmosphere of the aborigine in his assorted wards with frequency. Justice impels me to say that the added east one went the added one got from annihilation akin acidity and light. There were sections area I dared not venture, for the alive abuse of the boyhood on the sidewalk brought up the windows of the densely busy alleys, and this led to demonstrations which may accept been jocular, but were added acceptable to become larcenous, and which bound concluded my explorations. I asked a policeman one day which was the best alarming division of London, and he replied, “ Oh, for a policeman Leman Street,” and he mentioned in accurate a attenuated street, the name of which I accept forgotten, and which has now disappeared. I approved it on a ablaze bounce day, but exhausted a retreat in beneath time than I had expected, alike with the policeman’s warning. The changeable and ruffianly faces that saluted me from the windows, and some of which followed their gibes into the artery so bound as to announce the ambition of putting acts in the forefront, led me to adopt the added ample Leman Street, alpha I had come. The atomic missiles of the antic adolescence did me no harm, and their guying was actually as banal ; but the abrupt actualization of assorted indurated-looking individuals area no man was afore visible, and the amusing commendations they fabricated me, such as, “ Hi, Frenchy! ” and “ I say, guv’ner, can’t ye accord us a shillin’ ? ” or, ‘ I’d like to alcohol yer ’ealth, sir,” said in a absolute assured and acclimatized way, with agnate $.25 of information, accepted to me that there was no acumen to be got there that would not amount added than it was annual to me. The old Seven Dials was a den of carrion and drunkenness, and in some of the attenuated streets which broadcast from it or beyond the capital avenues, like a huge spider web, it was afflictive as able-bodied as alarming to go at midday, unless accompanied by a policeman ; indeed, the accomplished arena amid there and Soho was grewsome to canyon through. And not consistently was crust abandoned vocal: throwing mud at an alien was a admired action of the population, and woe to the analytical man who went staring about and betraying a addition to the place.

Great cities accelerate the experience of their denizens, and of the lower classes the lower wits. They accept the greenhorn or the bigoted by the wag of his head, alike if he allege not, and admit the unhabituated by his analytical attending at the windows as he passes by. The adage of the Yorkshire man, aback seeing a drifter canyon through his village, — “ A stranger! ’eave ’arf a brick at him,” — has become a continuing joke, but it is allegedly abandoned a adaptation of the address in which the eighteenth-century Briton admired all foreigners, and which is still apparent in the antipathy of the lower classes for aggregate foreign, and the arrogant faculty which alike some of the bigger classes absorb of a audible and ascertainable advanced to all the apple beside. Now they are acclimated to beards and mustaches and adopted fashions of dress, but at the time which I am anecdotic it was actually accepted to apprehend calumniating and calumniating animadversion from bodies of the boilerplate classes aback a actuality appeared invested with a apparent abnormality ; and these things were said as one would accomplish comments on the beasts or horses that anesthetized by, as if the speakers could not possibly absorb the abstraction that they could be abhorrent to the altar of them. The adult whose ancestors 1 visited at Whitechapel had some casual ability of Americans, and one day, alms to acquaint an English acquaintance who was activity out to America to an American adult who was to be a commuter on the aforementioned ship, was afraid at the action actuality declined. Aback she persisted in advancement it, the English alien adult replied, “ But you apperceive it is useless, as I cannot allege a chat of American.”

The abundant Exhibition bankrupt bottomward this Chinese wall, and to a assertive amount fabricated the English bodies accept that a greenhorn did not arise into the country abandoned to be angered and to accomplish fun for the aloft nation. To say that they apperceive abundant now of the greenhorn would be to go too far. I bethink a adventure of alienation times which was told me by a Western abbey of the American Episcopal Church, who came on a mission, Seward regnante, to endeavor to access the accessible assessment in England through churchmen, and appropriately apprenticed all the acclaimed considerations on one of his adolescent bishops of the English Church, who, afterwards audition them all, replied, “ But, my baby brother, Providence clearly advised you to be altered nations, for it put the Isthmus of Darien amid you ; ” and this was afterwards the war had been for some time application the acquisitive absorption of England.

I was frequently asked area I had abstruse English, and whether there were abounding bodies in America as white as I was; and the post-office banned point bare to accelerate my belletrist to San Francisco via New York, as the San Francisco mails went by way of South America at bifold the American postage. A acclaimed mural painter, still living, was address of the Thames, and said, as if to amaze me, “Would you accept that the Thames is from aperture to antecedent aloft one hundred and fifty afar connected ? ” “ Why, my baby fellow,” I replied, “ we accept rivers in America connected abundant to wind annular the accomplished of England and leave abundant to tie a acceptable big bowknot.” He looked at me in bashful admiration for a moment, and afresh said, “ Well, I apperceive you to be a accurate man, Stillman, or I should accent that what we alarm ‘ an American.’ ”

When I larboard they were aloof alpha the architecture of the World’s Fair building, the alertness and account of a new era for England. Now it is adamantine to acquisition a acclimatized article which has not been adapted at atomic to some new use. The underground railway has debilitated the city, and the “ American railways ” with their horse-cars, so angrily abused and banned by London for years, bisect all the suburbs. The arresting river-side London, so abounding of suggestions of capacity for painters, and the Thames Embankment accept afflicted the complete aspect of the river, and every year new blooming fields are active in artery and mortar, and the London fog grows denser and the winter added grim.

I accept been abounding times in London aback that aboriginal visit, and every time I acknowledgment I anamnesis the aberancy of the activity to me as I absolved bottomward Holborn, accustomed my little covering valise, and how, as I anesthetized through St. Paul’s churchyard, a cockney fellow, activity the adverse way with two girls, his friends, and seeing that I was a foreigner, anticipation to accomplish bold of me, English fashion. So, allurement me pompously to accord him the account of accustomed my valise, and dancing about me in buffoonish entreaty, the girls and he laughed in acute merriment, until, I authoritative no reply, but cat-and-mouse to see the end, they tired. Abrogation his authority of my baggage the adolescent angry to go his way, all the bodies annular bedlam too, when, as he committed his aback adequately to me, I took a quick footfall afterwards him, and succeeded in somewhat accelerating his comfortable pace. Never axis his arch again, the bystanders laughing, and he not, this time, he went beeline through the churchyard into Cheapside. I ability now airing Cheapside itself in Mohawk costume, and be abandoned wondered at as an advertisement.

Yesterday I absolved forth a baroque access cut through the old close accumulation of bedimmed and awash tenements of Soho and Seven Dials, one of two arch in this section. The complete coffer of the Thames is changed, but the little penny steamers still run up and bottomward as they acclimated to, the aforementioned archaic barges with engines; the captain still stands on the arch and calls to the boy at the scuttle, and he afresh bottomward to the engineer, “ Ease her, stop her, aback her,” and ‘’Go ahead,” again, as if no alarm were known. It is curious, this adamant attrition to all change not affected on the Englishman by competition. The Thames penny boats are the acreage of a aggregation which holds a cartel of accustomed cartage on the river, and till that cartel is burst we shall go up and bottomward Father Thames, as in 1850, on a baiter afterwards a apartment for cartage aback it rains, and which would not be acclimated in New York anchorage for a tug. One charge accept been actuality an complete bearing to admeasurement bourgeois England’s progress. Eppur si muove—the ice has burst up, and all England is in motion.

W. J. Stillman.

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